# Funshine's Carding Course Ch.6-Conclusion
Chapter 6: Levels Of Carding Believe it or not there are different levels of being a carder once you get your footing with all of this. We all have our own methods, opportunities, and ideas that lead

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Threaded Mode Funshine's Carding Course Ch.6-Conclusion

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05-01-2023, 08:56 AM
Chapter 6: Levels Of Carding
Believe it or not there are different levels of being a carder once you get your footing with all of this. We all have our own methods, opportunities, and ideas that lead us to success. We'll discuss these carder levels but please note this is just a simple generalization so you're able to see the differences in carding levels. I want you to understand where you want to take this AND whether or not this is even possible for you.
Consider anything to do with credit card fraud to be broken down in (5) levels excluding mobile carding. Depending on your goals and abilities will dictate which level of carder level you fall in. We'll get into the levels shortly.
Levels 1 -3 get more difficult as you level up through them but once you realize how fucking stupid those level of carders are you'll begin to see that levels 4-5 are much easier and more profitable. We're going to talk about carder level 1-3 first and then get into the juicy shit but before we do I want to say something about people who are aiming to be a carder level 1-3. Ready? FUCK THAT!
Don't fucking aim to be a level 1-3 carder ever because it's bullshit and you'll waste your fucking time on doing that. The easiest way to be successful with online carding is mobile carding. I'll let that sink in while you're reading this portion but anything to do with using a stolen CC online and ordering items from a website can fuck right off seriously. No joke. I'll push everyone who's reading this course to where you should strive to be. This is the secret sauce we're going to get into. This course is not just about educating and getting you up to speed with being a credit card fraud master but this course is also designed in a way to make you think differently about credit card fraud. I'm hoping to give you those Aha! moments that lead you to success so you're able to get an escort every night and do as much cocaine as your face can handle. My friends stay with me and you'll realize carding levels 4-5 is where the big boys are. Truth be told being a level 4-5 carder is much easier than anything else along with mobile carding. Different risks of course.
Remember my friend in Portland that taught me the credit card fraud ways? That fucker let me try all his "special methods" for the first 2-3 days when using stolen CCs and showed me how difficult that shit actually was. I ordered a bunch of shit to a drop address and then had to sell it to other people to make money. Pretty fucking annoying and had a lot of moving parts I didn't like. Turns out the best method was to create a website or eBay account that sells whatever products you plan on carding so that people make the purchase first and then you card the item right to them. Even that becomes unmanageable. eBay, craigslist, second-hand websites, etc. all became very important in moving stolen goods and became more work than I expected. Wasn't for me.
I wasted my fucking time doing all that which I'm sure some of you have wasted your time with those methods as well. It wasn't until roughly half way through of hanging out with him that he told me the real deal with credit card fraud. He wanted me to see the beginnings of CC fraud in order to open my mind up and change my outlook on this shit. It opened my eyes and blew my fucking brain which sent me on a cybercriminal fucking spree across the world like a fucking maniac. This is what I'm trying to do with everyone reading this in order to show you the right way with credit card fraud. Alright let's break it down.
Level 1 carding difficulty level = Easy
Level 2 carding difficulty level = Intermediate
Level 3 carding difficulty level = Hard to Very Hard
Level 4 carding difficulty level = Easy to Intermediate
Level 5 carding difficulty level = Easy to Intermediate
Carding level 1 earning potential = <$100 USD per card
Carding level 2 earning potential = $0 - $500 USD per card
Carding level 3 earning potential = $0 - $3000 USD per card
Carding level 4 earning potential = $0 - $5000 USD per card
Carding level 5 earning potential = $0 - $10,000+ USD per card
Level 1 carder: Easy
This is easy time and is a good place to start out if you're homeless learning carding basics. This level of carding is for people who want to order pizza, small orders for food over the phone from restaurants, and very minor shit. Teenage level things you see? If you're planning on being a level 1 carder then you can go ahead and order Chinese food with the CC details you have acquired. Pretty straight forward you broke bastard. If you're able to make an online order for food with basic CC details then you're within reach of the level 1 carder. This is minor shit and really is pretty stupid if you're learning carding in order to do that. It's just as simple as taking your friends CC from their wallet and placing an order to your local pizza shop over the phone so you can eat that pepperoni pizza like a boss. Congratulations you've made it man!
Level 1 carders need to obtain:
[*]Credit Card Number (CC)
[*]Expiration Date on the card
Level 2 carder: Intermediate
This is the level most people jump into when starting off with carding which is another good starting point for new commers to credit card fraud. If you're planning on being a level 2 carder you're aiming to card items that are mostly under $500 USD and are from smaller businesses online. These websites should be unique and not well known when being selected to card on while avoiding VBV. I'd recommend on getting into the mindset of thinking locally about which small businesses in your area may have an online merchant shop. You want to card on low level targets (clothing stores, shoe stores, etc.) so start thinking what you consider to be a lower-level target. These orders are all done online with stolen CCs.
Level 2 carders need to obtain:
[*]Credit Card Number (CC)
[*]Expiration Date on the card
[*]CVV
[*]Card holder name
[*]DOB
[*]Billing address
[*]Drop address to pick up your stolen goods
[*]Telephone number (depends)
[*]RDP or socks IP that is as close to card holder address as possible
Level 3 carder: Hard to Very Hard Level 3 carders are experienced individuals who have a great understanding of carding online and have a method they've determined to be viable when ordering items online. This would be for online orders from any major retailor for higher value items such as electronics, laptops, small appliances, etc. and have acquired the details to get around VBV bullshit.
Level 3 carders need to obtain:
[*]Credit Card Number (CC)
[*]Expiration Date on the card
[*]CVV
[*]Card holder name
[*]DOB
[*]Billing address
[*]Telephone number (depends)
[*]Credit report/Background report (in an attempt to answer VBV questions)
[*]SSN
[*]Drop address to pick up your stolen goods
[*]Sometimes require a fake ID in order to pick up items shipped
[*]Email of the card holder or ideally access to the email account of the card holder
[*]RDP or socks IP that is as close to card holder address as possible
Level 3 carders are where everyone thinks they want to be and is that typical image in your head when you're thinking of "carding". Right? This is what everyone thinks about when they hear credit card fraud. They think about someone obtaining stolen CC details which were stolen from whatever website, CC details sold on the marketplaces, and someone else used the details to order a laptop to an address in the Bronx. Right? This is what everyone probably thinks and wants to strive to be. Which is fucking wrong and probably not going to happen with ease.
Click to Read - Level 3 carders
Click to Read - Level 3 carding operations
The main problem when level 3 carding is you're making purchases online that are usually of higher value which means those websites, businesses, online merchants, etc. will have VBV waiting for you when you click "Checkout".
I realized when I was a "level 3 carder" that ordering items online takes A LOT of trial and error that comes with failure around every fucking corner. Lots of time spent on buying the right cards, ordering online, orders cancelled, drops being burned, requiring ID to pick up the item, etc.
Level 3 carders usually get very frustrated and end up abandoning the craft even if you have a few successes. After doing this a few times you begin to see the number of moving parts to this type of CC fraud and the amount of work involved. Ordering shit online with a stolen credit card isn't as easy as it once was. Those times are long gone. Not completely gone per se but they are to some degree. If you go down this route you'll need a drop address for your goods to get shipped to and then of course you still need to sell this shit yourself to get DAT MONEY. Depending on your age and intelligence this might sound pretty sweet to you, maybe.
I'm not saying you can't make money carding at this level but I'm just saying the amount of time you'll spend on whatever bullshit carding operation you want to get going can be better spent on actually making money. If you're committing that type of credit card fraud why aim for the lowest level of a credit card fraudster? Are you the type of criminal that robs a gas station instead of something actually worth it like a bank? What are you doing man?
Most of us all think that once we get into carding we're going to make all this cash dollarz but you soon realize that ordering items online with a stolen credit card, getting them shipped successfully to a drop, and then re-selling that item isn't going to be a way of doing that. There are a lot of moving parts that are difficult to lock down and make work in your favour in this type of fraud. I'm not even going to go into any more detail with this level of carding because you should be thinking much higher than this.
Honestly, unless you're a teenager or have an opportunity to easily commit this type of fraud just understand that yes people do it and know how they do it but I wouldn't spend too much time on this shit if you want to make a career out of fraud. Sure people might be making a bit of money here and there but it's an operation just like anything else which requires time on task. Use your time wisely my friends. Seriously though fuck level 3 carding.
Level 4 carder: Easy to Intermediate
Level 4 carders are the individuals who clone people's credit cards, walk into a store like a savage, make a purchase in person, and walk the fuck right out of there. At a later time they either sell the item online or keep it for themselves but these items are of high value. This is a generalization of this type of carder as you'll some come to learn there are many variations with a level 4 carder.
Level 4 carders are the types of carders that usually are more mature, older in age (>25), knowledgeable with fraud, and have life experience behind them. These individuals are that type of demographic because they have a better understanding of what's needed in order to be a successful level 4 carder, or any serious fraudster for that matter. Level 4 carders are going to be "acting" to some degree, have good social skills, and are excellent social engineers.
If you're operating at this level you're treating the stolen CC in your hand as your real card. That's number one. Always size up the individual you&aposa;re going to be handing the card to. Act normal and try striking up a normal conversation with them and use social engineering to your advantage.
Like any level of carding you'll need to develop your own method but developing your own method is fairly trivial once you have an understanding of how to card at this level. When you're done this course you'll have a greater understanding of how to create your own methods and just how simple that actually is. Don't buy anyone else's method from the interscams. Fuck that. Create your own. If you don't create your own you will never succeed with where you want to take this. You can count on that. You can create your own. Trust me you can.
Level 4 carders need to obtain:
[*]Credit Card Number (CC)
[*]Expiration Date on the card
[*]CVV
[*]Track 1 and 2 data (CVV DUMPS)
[*]Credit card reading/writing equipment (MSR605x, MSR605, AMC722)
[*]Blank cards/PVC cards
[*]Credit card/I.D printer
[*]Embossing machine
If you don't know what any of these items are please Google them. You should know what an "embossing machine" is at minimum for fuck sakes.
Pay attention to the dates in these next few articles and you'll realize level 4 carders are still very relevant today. Let's learn about the various types of level 4 carders and get an idea of what a level 4 carder is all about.
Click to Read - Level 4 carders in action
Click to Read - Level 4 carders doing their thing
Click to Read - Level 4 carders in progress
Take note on their mug shots. Do you think these individuals look like fraudster geniuses or?
Click to Read - El cardo level 4 el action
Click to Read - The level 4 carder
Anything that involves you personally being in a location that will have cameras, witnesses, and basically every IoT device recording your face while you're committing a crime and sending it back to mother Russia for analysis tends to bring with it much more risk. I think we all can agree that committing crimes over the internet is much different then committing crimes IRL yes? ClearView AI shattered my mentality what can I say.
So if you're 12 and reading this fraud course then I'm afraid you have limits in what you're capable of doing which means, for now, you're stuck in the level 1-3 carder level. Don't stress though because you're probably going to learn a fuck ton by reading this which will help educate you on how to be a professional in the credit card fraud realm as you become an adult. Good for you.
Even if you're a level 3 carder and you're reading this we both know how annoying being a level 3 carder is. Sure' at first you think shit is gonna work out but then you realize the risk involved, the drops, pickups, re-sells, all that shit is shit. I'm sure we all have different experiences but to me it wasn't worth the risk in what I was doing and the amount of time I was dedicating to my carding operation for the profits just wasn't making sense. I was on average making $1000 - $3000 USD every few months give or take. Honestly, I was better than that. I had bigger hopes and dreams but it was good being there because it helped with solidifying my fraud mentality and being able to understand things a little more.
Ok time to rant dudes. The point of this rant is to make you think a little outside of the box which will help you understand how to develop your own carding methods with anything fraud related. Specially after you educate yourself and mature by reading this course.
Here's one of the many examples of how to change your mindset and think about carding METHODS. Let's dive deep baby.
Here's what I mean. In the past I remember this pivotal moment in my cybercriminal career. Actually, being interviewed for this fucking carding course with Funshine triggered a memory back in the day for me which made me realize it was a very crucial learning point in my fraud career I must say. This aha! moment triggered a cascade of events that made me a lot of money really fucking quick. No need for applause I lost most of it and everything that mattered to me so no need for clapping you can sit down friends.
This was one of my first "test" methods when I graduated into a level 4 carder. I like to travel. So when you're travelling you get to see how different bars, restaurants, shops, keeps, castles, bunkers, dens, lairs, and stores operate around the world. Many are different and handle credit card transactions differently depending on their business model. I noticed at a few places I would frequent they would ask to physically hold onto my credit card when I dined at their restaurant, bar, club, etc. I began to keep track of these places and tried to find more that would operate in this manner. I kept a list of multiple places that operated this way in specific locations I would travel through and used that knowledge to go on my first ever carding spree.
I used:
[*]Credit card/I.D printer
[*]Embossing machine
I didn't have a CC number, EXP date, CVV, or proper name. I just had the ability to make a fake CC look like a real one. That's it. I even printed my real name on the printed CC just in case I was asked for ID. When I travelled to areas that were frequented by hundreds if not thousands of tourists daily I would only eat, drink, and party at these specific locations that would hold my CC. These places were la de da and I had to dress the part but these locations just wanted to physically "hold" my credit card while I was in their establishment and settle up after I was done. Nothing too crazy right? Pretty straight forward. The demographic that came to these types of places wasn't the one of the scamming type you see? False trust they had in their clientele but good for someone like me.
At first it sounded pretty stupid for me to commit this type of fraud but then I thought if I only did these methods when appropriate I could spend more money on my accommodations when I travelled through these countries. I looked at it from a point of view that I'd save on spending money on drinking my tits off, eating, drugs, billiards, dancing, etc. Understand?
Instead of spending $1000 euro that week or so on entertainment I'd spend the $1000 euro on better hotel rooms and luxury living. I did that type of carding for the week I was in those locations and had that taste of having hotels rooms that were wayyyy beyond my league and I thought to myself fuck me I need to think how to do this better and keep this going. Again, I thought to myself I'm better than this. Aren't you?
I know that story probably isn't that interesting to most but the point is it made me realize that credit card fraud at certain levels all depends on the risk you're willing to take, whether there's an opportunity to commit fraud, the knowledge you have in that "method", and the planning and execution of your scheme. For me this scheme was of low risk since I knew how most of the establishments I planned on carding operated and since I don't look like a thug or homeless person I didn't encounter any real problems. I dressed the part, I acted the part, and when the time was right, I went to the bathroom or went outside for a smoke break and simply left. I just walked the fuck down the street and continued on with my night. They kept my printed credit card and I gave zero fucks. It felt awesome.
Let's take another look at one of the same articles you read earlier on in this chapter. In the article below search for "The cards had the scammer's names on them" and read that sentence.
Click to Read - Level 4 carders in action
They did exactly what I was doing but on a more sophisticated level. I hope the wheels in your heads are beginning to turn
What about the cameras man! Fuck that mans! Like I'm going to go back to those countries anyways. The fuck do I care. Yes of course it was risky but how far do you think those investigations went into tracking me down? Maybe they have a photo of me so they have a photo and description? Did they send my photo out around the world? No they didn't. Maybe locally I made the news but it's not going far. I was OK with the risks involved and it made me think differently about selecting my targets to commit fraud against. Up until ClearView AI and other companies started to make it super easy to identify a suspect from a still image. Fuck man. Just fuck.
Anyways, that was my moment of thinking differently with carding. I realized developing profitable methods starts off just like this. You need to do stupid things to train your brain and developer better ways of doing things. This is how you level the fuck up! Figuring out better methods then just bars, restaurants, clubs, dancing, etc. and turning it into better profits. As stupid as it sounds what I just talked about is actually a carding "method". Right? Maybe you can think of places that do this and maybe where you live that isn't the "norm". Either way start to think outside of the box of what's possible for you in your area.
People are always looking for new carding methods and are blinded easily. Looking for cash out method for PayPal, looking for cash out method for amazon, Hey! does anyone have a cash out method for Apple need fullz lol. Right? There are a lot of PayPal cash out guides, fraud amazon guides, private method %100 fraud guides, and every other %100 working no joke PayPal to bank card cash out guides only for $400! Yes? You've seem them. They are everywhere.
By looking for those types of guides you're hoping that someone is going to sell you something that you can then turn around and make kazillions of dollars! Would you like to buy my "gold" beans for $1000 sir?! Come on now. You don't need anyone else's methods that's for sure. The only person you need in order to develop a very profitable method is yourself. HackTown is about investing into yourself and educating you in the realm of cybercrime from my experience which was profitable. Tad on the illegal side I guess but fuck man do whatever YOU think is best.
You probably realized while reading about my first level 4 carding experience that I just printed fake information on a CC and didn't actually clone anyone else's credit card or anything. I just made the fake CC I printed on appear to be an actual credit card physically and the places I went to simply held the physical credit card thinking it was some sort of collateral. Why would anyone skip out on the bill if we have their credit card mentality right? It was my light bulb moment on how to create my own methods. In order to develop my own profitable methods I knew needed to know a little more about the places I was targeting and how they operated...
Alright rant is over. Let's get back on track.
A level 4 carder requires obtaining "DUMPS", writing the track 1 and 2 data to a blank CC, and using that CC in person to make a purchase. Right away you're probably thinking WTF man that shit isn't possible where I live! Cool story bro. Right? CHIP and PIN credit cards have killed this right? Wrong. Truthfully this depends greatly on the merchant in question and where you are geographical located in the world. In my experience stores that have a lot of foot traffic, tourists, people, etc. tend to have more relaxed policies when it comes to processing credit card transactions. Those types of businesses literally deal with so many CC providers, CC cards, etc. it can be different for every transaction.
Before we move forward, we need to focus on some things that you must learn when aiming to be a level 4 carder. First, you're going to need to be able to purchase DUMPS that contain track 1 and 2 data from whatever source you plan on purchasing them from. Let's talk about DUMPS in details.
DUMPS are the data that skimmers have captured from someone's credit card when they've swiped it somewhere to make a purchase with it. A DUMP is an electronic copy of the magnetic stripe data of a credit card. If you're like WTF is the magnetic stripe of the CC then flip your fucking CC over and look at the back!
DUMPS are the raw information collected from the credit card magnetic stripes which are stolen via skimming, a point-of-sale device infected with malware, or from some sort of data breach.
Instead of me explaining all of this I'm going to refer you to the link below.
Click to Read - Information surrounding DUMPS
Magnetic stripes on payment cards, sometimes called magstripes, are divided into (3) tracks of data which are encoded directly onto the magstripe. Only Track 1 and Track 2 are actively used in payment card processing whereas Track 3 is rarely used and may not always be present on a card.
Both Track 1 and Track 2 contain enough basic information for processing payment card swipes by merchants. Most card readers will be able to read both Track 1 and Track 2 data, in case one of the tracks has become unreadable. You've already read from an article in the beginning of this course about how Track 1 and 2 data are displayed when it's captured from a card reader and being sold on the marketplaces. There are a lot of characters and random letters/numbers you noticed yes? Let's take a deeper look into all of this.
Track 1: %B4096654104697113^ABHINAV/SINGH ^08061012735900521000000? Track 2: ;361344212572004=0512052335136; ABHINAV/SINGH
Let's see what they mean. For payment cards, Track 1 Data will be formatted like this:
Track 1 Data cannot exceed 79 characters, including all Sentinels, Field Separators, and the LRC. The length of Discretionary Data is restricted as a result and tends to hold fairly short values.
The format for Track 2 Data was developed by the American Banking Association (ABA) and tends to be much shorter and holds less information:
Track 2 Data cannot exceed 40 characters, including all Sentinels, the Field Separator, and the LRC. The length of Discretionary Data is restricted as a result and tends to hold fairly short values.
As a level 4 carder you're purchasing CCV DUMPS, encoding them yourself onto a blank CC, printing the proper images of the right bank/CC onto the blank CC to blend in while using it, and using it at stores to purchase items.
OR
You have someone who works in an industry that is capable of swiping customers credit cards with their own little handheld card reader. There are many ways to obtain the CC details needed to function as a level 4 carder.
Some people might be thinking "I know someone who works at a restaurant that could use a little card reader and swipe all the customers data!". Right? Then you don't need to purchase any DUMPS or rely on anyone else! Yes! Wait, fuck no!
The problem obtaining CCs that way is when people report the fraud it would be trivial to determine if those people were at a single point that could link where the cards are being skimmed. This actually does happen so be very cautious when swiping peoples cards yourselves and not using them all from one place. You'll bring some heat faster than you know it.
OK. Back to mindset talk. Having more life experience behind you teaches you that when making real purchases with your own CC sometimes things don't go exactly how they're supposed to go when making a transaction. Think about how you would use your CC when walking into a store. You don't just fucking fly in with dark sunglasses and a hoodie on trying to make a purchase with a blank CC card right? Of fucking course not. Hopefully not.
My other aha! moment with credit card fraud was when I had a CC from a bank which had a chip and required a PIN when making purchases in person. However, over the years the chip appeared to be visibly worn down from general use and from me constantly taking it out of my wallet and putting it back in again. Eventually my credit card just stopped working one day when I went to pay for something that was just over $700 USD (auto repairs) and my CC kept coming up with an error which the clerk wasn't sure about. I explained the situation to the clerk and that my working theory as to why my credit card was all fucked up was the chip on the credit card had been worn down which had been causing me issues when using my card. Before I knew it, the clerk was swiping the card at the POS instead and I was being presented with a receipt for me to sign. After that I thought holy fuck man another CC method I can leverage potentially. Another trigger for me when it comes to creating your own carding methods. This place accepted my credit card but it didn't work in the POS since the chip was damaged so they ended up swiping it. That was it. Again, simple shit but it made me realize it's all about opportunity being a level 4 carder and what I'm willing to pull off. Won't shit in my backyard but I'll take a flight somewhere and card like a fucking kamikaze.
We're assuming all CCs these days are, or will be, CHIP and PIN so we're gonna focus on updated shit. Also, most people use that "tap" feature on their CC but for anything over $100 USD this feature isn't allowed. Why $100 limit? You guessed it. To prevent fraud.
Think of your own CC and how you make purchases with it at a store. Picture it in your mind. You're at a store making a purchase so you present your CC to the clerk, the clerk gives you the Point Of Sale (POS) machine, then you put your CC in the machine and enter your PIN. All good? Daily life right?
Now it's time to begin to think of what is realistic for you and what you're capable of doing. This is very important because if you're going to be successful not only does it depend on you getting around anti-fraud protections but it also depends on some key personal features such as:
[*]How old you are.
[*]Your social skills or social engineering abilities.
[*]Your physical appearance, demeanor, maturity levels, and mannerisms are important.
[*]If you're tweaking from a meth binge don't go in to a store thinking you look "fine". You don't.
If you walk into a store and you're trying to make a purchase looking like a baby you got problems. 99 fucking problems.
Everyone thinks that CC fraud usually it just for online items. This isn't actually the case. I think it's important to know what you're capable of and what you're wanting to do with carding. We all want to make the money out of our asses but depending on your situation, where you live, your intelligence, etc. you might not be capable of some of these things.
Level 5 carder: Intermediate
These types of carders are the type that call up businesses and place an order for a product over the phone. They give the CC details over the phone to the merchant and then pick up the product at a later time. These types of carders usually have a great understanding on construction work, project managing logistics, building supplies, and other equipment needed for larger scale construction products. It's very common for level 5 carders to use a stolen corporate CC to put a deposit down on a piece of rental equipment and fuck off with it.
I say this because level 5 carders that I know are mostly carding machinery equipment and construction equipment like savages across the USA. They rent a bobcat, dump truck, backhoe, or other large machinery with a stolen corporate CC, pick up the piece of equipment, and drive off. At a later date they sell this type of equipment within the construction community and/or private contractors. Of course, there are so many other ways of picking a business to level 5 card at but you really need to have some insight into the company in question before attempting this. This just doesn't apply to those types of industries but the individual I know stuck with these industries and had much success with renting equipment with the stolen CC and leaving with it on a trailer.
Level 5 carders need to obtain:
[*]Credit Card Number (CC) preferably corporate/business
[*]Expiration Date on the card
[*]CVV
[*]Blank cards/PVC cards with chips in them
[*]Credit card/I.D printer
[*]Embossing machine
It's much easier to sell a piece of equipment to a mom and pa business at a discount for cash. Very easy to offload goods as long as you have some know in the business sector you're familiar with. Level 5 carder is very similar to a level 4 carder but has a slight variation with the logistics and methods behind it.
Mobile carding: Easy to Intermediate
Mobile carding is by far the easiest method to use when performing carding online and requires little setup to get your operation going. You still require valid CC details when making online purchases but can negate the fact you need VPN, RDP, socks, VMs, cleaners, etc.
Mobile carders need to obtain:
[*]Credit Card Number (CC)
[*]Expiration Date on the card
[*]CVV
[*]First and Last name of the card holder
[*]Address of the card holder
[*]SIM card purchased with cash
[*]Mobile device
Many of us have had most success when carding online using a mobile device and I recommend in doing this method especially when you're on the move or travelling, etc. After reading or re-reading this you should now be aware of what's required to card online successfully with a computer/laptop. All of those extra layers of security, services, etc.
With mobile carding we don't need any of that. All you need is a burner cellphone (data plan is nice) with SIM card purchased from 711 or similar store with Wi-Fi connectivity, without ID, and purchased with cash. Wear a disguise or dress differently then you normally would when making the purchase and be aware you could be recorded on camera when making the purchase. 711 stores are all over the world and if you're just passing through the area you plan on carding in you're a piece of dust in a dust storm of anonymity. The longer you can leave the burner phone un-activated the better as some businesses roll over recordings after certain amount of time has passed. You can never be certain if this actually happens so act accordingly and there's nothing wrong with turning the burner mobile device on a month after purchasing it and setting it up away from home on free/hacked Wi-Fi network.
You need to purchase the proper credit card details from a Vendor/marketplace in the geographical area you'll be using the burner phone in. For example, I bought CCs that were siphoned from the Portland, Oregon area and used a burner cell phone to card with when I was in Portland. I've used this method multiple times now. It's important to browse the website you're going to card on from your mobile device like a normal customer. For the card holder address I put the information I've purchased as this has to match the card holder address and then I ship to a location in Portland to the same last name as the card holder. I use the same last name to appear as the card holder has purchased an item for a family member and is having it shipped within the same area they live in.
You don't need RDP/socks, VMs, VPN, anti-fraud browser (linkensphere, etc.), and all those items. All you need is CCs, burner phone, and drop address.
This is the process:
[*]Purchase burner phone anonymously with cash from 711 or similar in your area. This can be an old phone purchased with proper SIM card in your area.
[*]Purchase the CC details for the area you'll be using the burner phone in.
[*]Find a valid website you're looking to make the purchase from and browse the site as a normal user would (the more time browsing the website the better) on the burner device from free/hacked Wi-Fi in same area.
[*]Enter the proper address of the card holder when checking out but use a different email close to the CC holder First/Last name.
[*]Use the same last name as the card holder when choosing to ship it to another location. IE: CC holder name is Jane Smith and shipping address name is Mark Smith.
[*]Always use the fastest delivery option possible.
[*]Check on your drop(s) for 4-7 days then move on.
It's best to be on the move with this method. If you're staying at a hostel, hotel, AirBnB, etc. you can use one burner phone (or more depending on paranoia) and card like a fucking maniac for the week. Regardless if your packages get delivered or not after a week move on.
Drops are important just as with anything carding online to receive your items to keep or re-sell yourself. We all live in different parts of the world and we all have unique opportunities when obtaining our own drops.
I advise to go a spree when running a fraud campaign for about (3) months while on the move and then relax, plan, review your operation so you can improve, and continue on. Depending on what you're carding and you're level of operations this will be profitable as much as you want it to be. Working in teams for larger operations is more ideal so think about those who are around you that can help and be interested in these endeavours. Best friends are more trustable than anyone you'll meet online.
Now that you know the different levels of carders you should have an understanding of which level you fall into and what realistically is possible for yourself. As you can see each level requires different items and skill sets in order to be successful. Not only does it require different items but it requires more confidence in yourself which can limit most people from even attempting this kind of fraud.
This is the reality with carding. Whichever way you decide to go at least now you have the information required to make a proper decision on whether or not this type of fraud is good for yourself.
[*]Chapter 7: Equipment needed
Depending on which level of carder you're planning on aiming for will dictate the equipment you'll need to be successful. Obviously we're going to need to obtain stolen CC information with every carder level you plan on dipping your toes into. We don't want to just purchase any CCs though because there's no point of purchasing stolen CC information that is from homeless people with no fucking credit. You want to purchase proper CCs that have a high limit and are owned by people with good credit scores which have well-paying jobs.
Changing your browser User-Agent I use Firefox so I'll show you how to do this with Firefox. Open Firefox and hit CTRL+SHIFT+A on your keyboard and search for "User-Agent Switcher" and install it. Once you've installed the extension you'll notice a new icon near the URL bar on the right hand side like the screenshot below.
As you can see you can alter the User-Agent to appear as a different OS and browser then what you're using. It's recommended to appear as a "normal" user and select the right User-Agent strings that represent the masses out there. Don't select ones that are weird and not usual or this will increase fraud suspicion when attempting to make an online purchase. Sometimes you're able to by all login information about an account from a vendor. This may include browser type, User-Agent strings, IP address, Cookies, etc. If you're wanting something that is specifically meant for fraudsters when it comes to cloning these details you want to look into the following.
[*]
Click to Read - The Linken Sphere Browser
You may purchase it from here: https://ls.tenebris.cc/index If you want to purchase private configs for it check out: https://configshop.net/en Bank Information Number (BIN) To easily sump BINS up. Finding a local BIN will be much better for you when you're carding in the area that you're in. You'll have a much higher success rate because ALL banks have some sort of fraud detection in place to keep their customers safe. Some being more sophisticated than others. If you want BINS capable of making large purchases with ease then take at your wallet and look at your credit card. Can you go a buy a 4K TV with it no problems? That's probably the BIN you'll be looking to purchase OK? First when you're aiming for any carder level status you want to ensure you're using the proper CCs when making any type of purchase. This is very important for success. When people on the forums or marketplaces are talking about BINS and selling great BINS or High value CCs or whatever the fuck pay attention because you only want the good shit. You want to purchase the right Bank Information Number (BIN) credit cards. As you get some experience with carding you'll begin to realize the best BINs are from lower credit union type places or from lower tier organizations and not the big banks. Why? Because big banks will send out text messages to CC holders when purchases are made, they have better security, etc. Pick the right BIN for the job. You want good BINs yes? Let's see why this is important. The BIN is the first 6 digits of any credit card which is used to identity the type of CC along with the issuing bank of the CC. Go ahead and pull your credit card out and go to https://www.bindb.com/bin-database.html and enter the first 6 digits of your credit card and click on "Search". You'll see much information about your CC and the issuing bank which is useful information. Take note of the "Card Level" when you've search your BIN because you're going to want to look up the CC brand, issuing bank, and card level so you're able to understand the possibilities of the CC you have. CCs have spending limits on the card. No shit. Just like your own CC has a maximum available credit amount to spend which would obviously differ from someone else's CC spending limit who has no debt and is making $200,000 USD a year. Alright now I want you to think of someone who you know personally who you consider to be "successful" in life. Are they a financial Wall St wizard making thousands of dollars a day? Do they have a nice home or nice car? Good. Those types of people. You want CCs and BINs that are linked to those kinds of people. Yes? Now start to think about what CC issuer and what CC level those types of people would have for their CC. If you want decent BINs think that way and simply shoulder surf over the people you know are like this or inquire in a friendly way about the first (6) digits of their CC. You're going to want to get those first 6 digits of their CC because when you're buying CCs from vendors you want to be buying the right BINs. Thinking like this will give some insight into the card holder you're going to become, what their spending habits are, lifestyle, and credit card limits. You want those types of people/demographic yes? We want good BINs. Not bullshit CC that can't buy condoms online. Understand? Good. It's also a good idea to pick BINs that are associated to popular CC brands and issuing banks. I like to pick BINs that are associated to a CC that has an annual fee in order to own the credit card. I prefer those types of cards because some credit cards can be very specific in why the card holder wants that CC and is willing to pay some sort of fee to own it. I look for the ones associated to travel points and shit because those types of card holders tend to travel, a lot. Which means they probably use their CC all over the god damn place and have a more relaxed spending profile. Also, when there are fees to owning a CC those type of credit cards tend to have a higher credit spending limit, the card holders have good credit, and those people use their cards frequently. You want to obtain the right BINs for the CCs you plan on purchasing and you want to make sure you're purchasing the right BIN CC that would be ideal for the geographical area you plan on carding in. If you put in the first 6 digits of your own CC when following along with this course and you're credit is fucking terrible then you probably have one of the fucking worst CCs to own so maybe don't buy those types of BINs. You see? This should be crystal fucking clear people. Most of us want to order a fuck ton of wicked shit and have it delivered to our drop addresses so we can pick it up and sell it to someone at a discount pocketing that cash dollar bills. This is how I made money when I started my carding lifestyle as I'm sure many did before me but this is low level shit. When everyone is learning they start out here but if you're aiming for that you want to create a profile on eBay or where ever and advertise whatever products you plan on carding. Then when someone makes a purchase for the product you card the item to their home. Fuck drops. Please take note because this carding course isn't meant for this type of carder. It's meant for people who want to make money. Not order bullshit off some website to re-sell it. Read the fuck on. Credit Cards You want to purchase freshly stolen CC information so your chances of success are the highest. Purchasing old data will come with a much higher chance of failure with whatever you're trying to do. If possible determine when the specific CC you're purchasing was skimmed or stolen. Remember though, carding will be hit or miss for you until you're not relying on others for stolen CC information and have a method in obtaining this yourself. That way you know it's fresh. Each card company has their own specific types of cards, here are a few to keep an eye out for. Visa Secured For trash cans with no credit. Low available credit limit, around $300. Classic Popular with individuals who have lower credit scores. Low available credit limits, around $1000. Gold Popular within the middle class and people working on building their credit score. The average Joe. Usually around $8000 - $10,000 limits. Platinum Upper class individuals with excellent credit. Credit limits range from $10,000 - $40,000. Business Used for small to medium sized businesses, usually has relatively decent limits depending on the business of course. $5000 - $15,000 limits to be expected based on business models. Signature No pre-set spending limit people say but the reality is these cards do have a limit. What that is depends greatly on the individual in question. Amex Gold Around the $10,000 limit on cards. Platnium Usually higher limit, around 35k Centurion High available limits of 75k+ It's very important to remember that just because the credit card has a high limit doesn't mean that most of it is maxed out. Without knowing the full credit report of the individual of the CC you're purchasing this is impossible to know.
null If you need to purchase stolen CCs please check The Armory here at HackTown.
If you're looking for a Vendor on a dark market just ensure you're using proper links and not being phished. You can confirm the links at: http://darkfailenbsdla5mal2mxn2uz66od5vt...f3id.onion
http://darknetlidvrsli6iso7my54rjayjursy...q2yd.onion
When selecting a Vendor make sure to check:
Buyer feedback
What kind of stolen CC they are selling
What type of BIN do they have for sale
Ensure you're buying CC, DOB, name of card holder, address, and all those details you'll be needing for success in your carding operation. Do a little due diligence when making your purchase but don't be fooled as you'll still burn through some cards. It's just the way it goes. For example, I purchased the CCs to audit this course recently and still would encounter 6/10 cards burned. The CCs were already burned or my efforts contributed to burning them. This is normal comrades so don't stress. Some people check their credit cards before using them which I don't recommend but going through some things I realized from my experience it didn't affect one way or another with burning cards with some variations. Use at your discretion and understand why these services may burn your shit. To each their own I guess. https://luxchecker.pm
https://luxchecker.pw
http://luxchkr35xj7gis6u4xu67f4theumzhbw...mzqd.onion
[*]
Click to Read - How groups test CCs
MSR605, MSR605x, and other Credit Card Readers/Writers
The MSR605 series and other types of similar products are designed to read and/or write the magnetic stripe data found on credit cards onto a blank PVC card. The product communicates with the host computer via USB and is relatively easy to use. This can clone any type of card with a magnetic stripe on the back such as gift cards, hotel cards, rewards cards, credit cards, id cards, etc. These type of card reader and writers can read from a legitimate credit card and write the information to a new blank card or you can also write the DUMPS you've just purchased directly onto a new card and off you go carding like a fucking maniac in the store. Let's go through an example so everyone knows how to use the software properly and avoid silly errors. The software I'm using for my MSR605 is the MagCard Write/Read Utility Program v2.01 which I downloaded from the Internet but the software will come with the MSR605 when you purchase it. Maybe it's the same and maybe it's not? I bought mine at a re-used marketplace but you can get these online no problems. If you bought a different model this is OK as the software should be pretty straight forward to use and you would've got it when you made the purchase. Getting back to the MSR605. When I first launch the MSR software it asks for a password. Enter a password for it and click OK.
null
You should be presented with the same screen as in the screenshot below or similar depending on software used. Leave all the default settings alone or match them up as seen below.
Next grab your own CC and click on "Read". You will notice a new blue "READ CARD" window that has popped up and the light on your MSR605 will turn orange or yellow. Swipe your own CC to see how it captures the data as seen in the screenshot below.
Few things to note about the screenshot above. Take a look at the Track 1 and Track 2 data before you click on "Cancel". See how there is a "%" sign at the beginning of Track 1 DATA and a ";" followed at the end by a "?" for Track 2 DATA yes? Now click on "Cancel" in the new blue "READ CARD" popup window to see what happens to those characters. In the screenshot below I've already clicked cancel and you can notice those characters are gone.
Notice how those characters are now removed? This is important because some people get all fucked up about this but this is normal. What is important is when you're buying DUMPS and how that data appears when purchased as you need to include those characters when you write to a new blank card. For example, in the screenshot below I purchased a DUMP for a CC and this is how the CC data was supplied to me.
If I was encoding the CC data I purchased onto a blank CC then I would put it into a file and let the MSR605 program use that file to encode with. For example, I put the CC DUMP data I purchased into a file called "9.txt" on my Desktop as seen in the screenshot above. Once I have the CC data into a .txt file I would click on "From File" then select 9.txt and a new red "Write Card (From File)" popup window will be displayed. Now you can swipe the blank CC in your MSR605 machine to encode the CC DUMP data you purchased onto the blank card.
Once I have swiped the blank CC to encode the data I am presented with the window below about "End of File!!" which is normal.
To make sure you know what you're doing it's best to clone your own personal CC. null Make sure you don't accidently write over your real CC! Pay attention when clicking on "read" or "write" when swiping your CC or else you'll accidently wipe your actual CC data. Don't do this like I did the first time using this program 9000 years ago! Go ahead and get your own CC out and click on "Read" then swipe your own CC. It will capture the data and then click on "write" and swipe a blank CC. To ensure you've done it correctly click on "Compare" and swipe your own CC and then the cloned CC to make sure they are the same. Next, click on "To File" and swipe your own CC to have the data saved into a file. If you followed along in the example you would notice extra things added to the file which you can remove. Remember, when writing the DUMPS you've purchased just like my example you only want to have Track 1 and Track 2 data formatted as previously seen. This is how DUMPS should appear and this is how you write them to a blank CC. The program I used with my MSR605 to write to blank CCs may be different than the one you were supplied when you bought your MSR605 or similar device. This is OK as the process of writing to a blank CC would be a very similar. Embosser machines
You can purchase these pretty much everywhere online. Simply type into Google "Embossing machine" and off you go. Amazon and eBay have a wide selection for you. Credit Card/ID printers
These are the easier no hassle high quality CC printers that I found were the best for my operations at the time from start to scaling up to professional. I suggest starting out with an EPSON as there are many to select from and some models come with the PVC attachment so you can print directly onto the blank CC. I recommend the EPSON R260/R280 printer but there are many newer models out there that are probably newer and better. Simply type into Google "EPSON R260" and "EPSON R260 PVC Tray" and off you go. The other (2) CC/ID printers are a little pricey but it depends on what you're looking for. If
Remote Desktop Protocol (RDP)
[*] RDP is a proprietary protocol developed by Microsoft that provides a user with a graphical user interface (GUI) to connect to another computer over the internet. You will connect to their RDP server software from your RDP client software. Connecting to a RDP your goal would be to appear to be connecting from the same location as the credit card holder so you're able to increase your chances of a successful online transaction. Ensure you're not leaking any DNS or other details before attempting to card. You can purchase RDP from: https://rdpcanada.net https://crazyrdp.com https://rdp.sh https://exavpn.com/vpn-service/residenti...al-machine Once you're connected to a RDP check your IP fraud scores at: https://whoer.net http://www.ip-score.com https://www.ipqualityscore.com http://check2ip.com socks Socks 5 SOCKet Secure (SOCKS) is an Internet protocol that routes your network traffic between a client and a server through a proxy server. Picture this like a VPN but it does not encrypt your traffic but re-routes it so it appears you're coming from a certain location. Using SOCKS can hide your IP and appear to be from the same location as the credit card holder to make a successful transaction. Ensure you're not leaking any DNS or other details before attempting to card. You can purchase proxies from: https://socks5.shop https://5socks.net https://premsocks.com Once you're connected to a proxy check your IP fraud scores at: https://whoer.net http://www.ip-score.com https://www.ipqualityscore.com http://check2ip.com Drops Drops are required if you decide to card online items because you'll need somewhere to have all your stolen shit shipped to. Few ways to consider. If you want to play the plausible deniability card then usually when you rent a place you always get the old tenants mail in the mail. This will give you a name to have anything shipped to, although you can just make up a name to have it shipped to your address as well. A lot of people do this when ordering drugs from the Dark marketplaces because they can get it shipped right to their door and as long as they don't sign for the package technically the person that the package is being shipped to doesn't live there. Obviously if the package needs a signature to be picked up this will be a problem so only small packages that can fit into a normal sized mailbox are ideal for this situation. Airbnb. A lot of people were renting shitty Airbnb's for a week and during that week were getting everything shipped to that address. This was very popular with some people I used to associate with and seemed to work for their needs. Personally, I was using low rise apartment buildings that I could access the foyer without a key. People would leave mail out that wasn't addressed to them, people still getting their mail delivered there but have moved, etc. I would use this as a drop as I could access the foyer where packages would be dropped off and sit around and wait for it be delivered. I would always use tracking when getting the item shipped so I could plan to be at the drop at that exact moment. If you're using drops they will become a headache for you and are just as risky as instore carding to some degree since you physically have to pick up the item or be there for the item. Another reason I turned to in-store carding.
Click to Read - Have a look at alpha02 carding guide
Click to Read - Bailopan carding guide [/url]
[*][url=http://hacktowns3sba2xavxecm23aoocvzciaxirh3vekg2ovzdjgjxedfvqd.onion/F_Links/n3d.k311y.html]Click to Read - n3d.k311y carding guide
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05-02-2023, 03:54 PM
Nice tut mate but socks 5 will burn the card
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